Thursday, 30 November 2017

Plan For Extreem Weather


   This is a recycled post from last year  with a few new thoughts so some of this you may have already read. It has been updater to include lessons learnt from 2017. /2018

      Overseas competitors from cold countries  may fully  not appreciate   that UK Winter Hill Conditions can be way harder to cope with than the much colder weather you may have experienced in  northern regions such as Alaska and Scandinavia.     This is not just my personal view but also the race Directors Scott and Phill. (they both have extensive Snow and  Polar Experience).
     A combination of frequent rain and high humidity combined with rapid changes in temperature makes dressing suitably for the conditions difficult to plan. You may have to change layering several times each day as you move between exposed high level areas and low level farmland.
     High humidity even without rain means damp . Dampness makes controlling heat loss from the body  difficult to manage and that is without even taking into account the effects on Chaffing , Trench foot and Blisters.
     Normal Pennine winter  temperature ranges of between +10c and -10c make trail conditions vary widely. Even making Kit choices a week  before the race is never straight forward. Your Kit must be able to be adapted for weather during  and during the whole possibly 7 days of the  Race .

       If you live in Canada  and go trail running in -20c you may wonder what all the fuss is about. This  may lead you to underestimate the reality of Spine Conditions.


      There have been 7 editions of the Spine Race so far and we tend to think of each year as characterised  by one sort of weather .
                   1 2012 ---Icy.
                   2 2013---Icy + Blizzard.
                   3 2014 ---Rain ---Rain ----Rain
                   4 2015 --- Extreme Wind + snow
                   5 2016---- Cold then Snow later in the race.
                   6 2017----Melting snow . then  a mild damp slog.
                   7 2018 ---dryish then wind and rain followed by snow over unfrozen ground.
                                  
In reality what gets remembered is the extremes of weather en counted  on  specific days on specific parts of the course. Pennine Weather can change fast even over small distances . You could find yourself on a high pass in bright sunshine  looking over at  a storm on the next Peak .

       For  as a competitor you need to be able to survive  (or at least adapt ) to the extremes and cope with long hours of less noteworthy weather that can grind you down.

        BAD FORECASTS
         All Spine and Challenger racers should have a good understanding of predicted weather and it's implications for you the runner.
          Ultimately the forecasts you need to worry about are the medium forecast for the race period  and the updates available at CP's during the race . (Pre race Face book will get flooded by overexcited and often uninformed comments on race conditions )  
           The Pre Race briefings will give you a better idea but that briefing covers many aspects of the race .
            To get a more detailed analysis of weather and coping strategy I thoroughly recommend attending  Ranger Expeditions Pre Race  Masterclass. Even better sign up for the Spine Race Training Course.

        Spine Race Organisation  has , over the years  moved forward especially in areas of Safety and Race Control and this has been reflected in what weather conditions you are likely to encounter.
        Increasing the  numbers of runners means that the bar of what is unacceptable weather has  probably been lowered. Sudden changes in weather still  do result in unpredictable hazards.
     

  When it Comes to Spine Weather  expect the "RACE TO GO ON "      in conditions that would cause other trail races to be stooped or cancelled.

          From a personal point of view I can honestly say that during my 4 Spine Runs I have encountered  the most severe and at times terrifying weather conditions in all the 62 years of my life.
           I have spent many days in the hills but  like most people not ventured out in what I would class as miserable conditions in daylight which become downright  dodgy at night.
           It is one thing to nip out of a car to stand by the sea in a gale for a few moments or walk around a Ski Resort in a howling  blizzard  and a totally different thing to know that you are totally knackered , possibly  hours from any  help and that if you make a mistake.

       
   You should be able to get advice from Marshall's about fore casted trail conditions ahead . Don't ignore this advise . Make your own decisions on how to prepare.
 
   IF A MARSHAL GIVES YOU A DIRECT INSTRUCTION  TO MAKE A DIVERSION OR DELAY TACKLING A HIGH EXPOSED AREA YOU ARE OBLIGED TO FOLLOW THAT INSTRUCTION.

                 At  times when the forecast and weather looks good but you may be  instructed to halt .

                 It could be that the safety teams are having trouble covering the course ahead ,due to access problems or dealing with another incident.

                         IF YOU  IGNORE INSTRUCTIONS YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED                              

           We all have a rough race plan  and part of this is to have a flexible plan .
           The Course Directors also have a race plan and several back up plans .
            Pre race several possible diversion routs have been worked out to allow for weather conditions .
            You don't need to worry about these routs as they will be explained if and when they become necessary.
             If you are asked to divert then that is the time your Nav skills will be really tested. You may have to enter way points into your GPS . Re mark the new course using  a pen that actually writes on a waterproof map .
             Just to make things a little more complex you may have to go "Off Map" This happened in 2015 when part of the field was diverted from Cow Green Reservoir  to Gargill  missing out Dufton and Cross Fell . Most of this rout was outside the narrow Pennine Way strip of map shown on the Harveys and AZ maps.   If this happens it's all down to written directions and your minute square of map (zoomed in and out) shown on the GPS screen. The MST had put some signs out but most were buried in snow.

       

         Types of Extreme weather you may encounter .

          1 WIND 
          2 HEAVY SNOW
          3 TORRENTIAL RAIN
          4 SNOW MELT RUN OFF
          5 BELOW FREEZING TEMPERATURE'S
          

WIND     

Having competed in the  2015 Spine  and the Borrowdale OMM. I have huge respect for the effects of high    winds in the Fells.   A Gale may be  a slight hindrance in most towns but up on the Fells especially on an exposed ridge line it can mean the difference between Racing and a Survival Crawl in order to carry on with the least possible damage to gear and bodily health.  
         50mph winds (80kpm) in the hills will knock you off your feet. It is not the constant force but the rapid changes in wind strength that are the problem.  
         Your worst situation will be strong tail winds while descending on rocks soaked by  wind driven rain.
          What ever the situation if things get really bad then your best friend will be your Pole (note that is a singular pole . Your free hand will be employed in grabbing rocks and the ground if you start to fall. The pole is held up wind to act as a prop to prevent you falling upwind  if a gust suddenly subsides.
          Taller light weight racers will suffer most. Short ,fat racers will expend less energy staying upright  and be subjected to lower Wind Chill.

          Navigation in really high winds means using the GPS . 
           Shortly after starting in 2015,  high winds forced  map and compass navigators to gave up trying to hold a map.  (Even in marginal winds your map needs to be tethered to your pack preferably in a good clear map case.)    Any loose gear attached to racers  packs was ripped off
         . Waterproof pack covers lasted about 20 mins before they all were ripped off last seen  heading towards the north sea.

          If the forecast is for mountain winds above 20 mph you may wish to consider streamlining your pack . Bulky items should be strapped close to your body and low down to prevent the forces of wind on your pack 'weathercocking" your body into the wind. (the down side of this is that you tend to  get jammed in narrow gates!)  . Having a roll mat strapped to the top of your pack in high wind  is a total no no.

         High winds in the mountains are often accompanied with low cloud , mist and rain. Any form of moisture will accelerate the rate your body cools .  In 2015 the wind blasted droplets of rain through every minute gap in your waterproof clothing . The good quality shell fabrics worked but poor cuff, neck and waist joints let water in .
          I should also add that the wind caused Waterproof trousers to fail for many competitors . Press stud lower leg seals had no chance  holding . Once the flap was open the resulting vibration ripped apart  several  sets of over trousers.  Communication between different members in groups can be difficult ruling out co operation in Navigation and general group tactics.
      Cold dry winds without Goggles will fast track you to :  WIND BLINDNESS the stealth  DNF .
   
     

    HEAVY SNOW.

      We all know there are many sorts of Snow but the' Knee Jerk' reaction to  any signs or type  of snow on the course is to go out and buy specialised snow running shoes soy don't slip.
       Even a little smattering of  snow tends to panic the UK trail runner.

        As with most things Spine Related you need to look closer at your preconceived ideas.

                      The Plain Truth Is That Most Snow Is Not That Slippery.

         Ice is slippery but fresh snow or even snow that has lain for some time can be  easy to run on .
         The main exception is Verglas . This is where the surface of the snow has been melted then Re-frozen forming a hard but  sometimes thin crust.

                               VERGLAS
                                Can end has been encountered especially if we get settled snow and clear skies with the temps rising above freezing during the day then sub zero at night. This can result in a hard crystal crust on the surface that melts gradually in the sun. This surface is slippery if thick enough as it forms an ice  crust that can support your body weight.
          If you encounter this crust then put on your Traction Aids.

                                 DEEP SNOW WITH THIN CRUST
                                    Post Holing .                                     This occurs more commonly and is much more difficult to cope with. Your feet break through the crust and you find yourself lurching from hole to hole or trying to follow the tracks of other runners who passed earlier.
                                    The snow crust itself can bruise your legs but Gaiters can alleviate this problem.
                                    Post Holing  is incredibly energy sapping and it's not unusual for your speed to drop below 1 Km per Hr!. Snow running shoes like Spikecross are no help at all .  Your best way to make efficient progress is to let someone else go first then follow or avoid their track if they hit the really deep stuff!
                                      Using SPINE RACE MULTY TOOL AKA your running poles are the only way of staying upright in deep snow. You also need them for probing to establish snow depth and covered hazards.


                                     SNOWSHOES
                        ( The tennis racket type) are the only really efficient way to reduce energy drain and increase pace .  The problem with Snowshoes is that they are not good on steep ,angled and rough ground  so you may have to take them off and on .
                                      Running  Snowshoes can weigh as little as 1Kg but they are cumbersome to attach to your pack and there is always a reluctance to take them from your drop bag and add that extra  1Kg to your race pack . If there is deep snow outside the CP Door then this psychological barrier would not be a problem . I suspect the greater danger would be from other runner mugging you and stealing the snowshoes.
                                       In case you are wondering ,yes I do pack  Kahtoola RNR snowshoes in my drop bag  if the medium forecast is for snow.  I have never used them but would have on several sections : Spines  2016 and 2013 if I had accurate reports whilst departing certain CP's . I would only have used them on some legs of the course and in each case they would have saved me hours .
               (CP Marshals have only rough, random reports of the trail ahead . Short of sending out your own personal 'Drone" to recce the trail ahead , carrying Snowshoes will always be a gamble  .

                                        A snowshoe is essentially a way of increasing your footprint size . If your feet have swollen and you are wearing your larger shoes you won's sink so often into snow.
                                        It is possible to increase your foot size while on the trail . Yacktrax Pro are traction aids that wrap around your foot . This effectively increases your footprint size . You can increase it further by wrapping a T shirt around your foot  and holding it in place with  the Yaktrax.  (This may seem an utterly ridiculous suggestion but when you fall through the crust 8 steps out of 10 it is worth trying  anything and everything!)"Been there done that , it sort of works ."

          SOFT FRESH SNOW
                                        You may find yourself bashing your own personal trail through Knee deep snow. This is plain hard work and you will probably make better progress teaming up with others and rotating the leading runner when they tire.  Shallow snow can be a joy to run in as it can cushion each step giving bruised feet a bit of a break.  Problems can occur if there is a layer of hard  ice under  the snow but this is unlikely to happen unless we get a prolonged severe cold spell for several days before the event.

           AVOIDABLE SNOW ISSUES
                                           Unlike colder regions of the world the UK warm  soil surface temps seldom allow Ice to form for long . You will usually find slush under the snow. (No Permafrost )
                                            What you are likely to encounter is thin snow that sticks to your Shoes and Gaiters falling balls of ice that build up as you walk . This 'Balling Effect' can have a major impact on your pace as you can end up carrying great slabs of ice on your legs.
                                             Snow or ice 'Balling ' always starts with a seed of water. Wet snow (At near 0c ) touches this and sticks as it is compressed. Each time the effected are is dabbed in wet snow more  snow/slush , sticks and builds up . Any loose wet object (like a frayed lace end or wisps of  chord protruding from your waterproofs ankle toggle will start this process ) . Go over your lower leg gear and use a flame to consolidate all loose ends. Better still over tape the flapping bits with plastic electrical tape before leaving the CP and heading out on Snow.
                                              Moisture repellant Gaiters will prevent ice build up on the legs.

                                             Gaiter Under Foot Straps if made of nylon webbing can be subjected to 'balling' in some conditions. The Nylon wets out ,balls form and before you know it you shoes are jacked off the ground right under your arches.  This sort of ball is often mixed with dirt and can be remarkably difficult to break off leading several competitors to abandon the gaiters altogether  and accepting  snow getting into the tops of  footwear   .  Choosing Gaiters with a 'Hypalon ' (rubberised) under strap or multy strand wire  will prevent balling. as the snow does not stick.

                       FALLING SNOW
                                              Can be quite fun in daylight but at night the back reflections from your head torch drastically reduce visibility.  If you are on a goodish  path you will be OK provided you keep checking your GPS .
                                       The GPS  is a much more effective tool than a Map in reduced viz or white out conditions.
                                      Falling snow is often moving sideways and this can be incredibly disorientating at night. Holding a course even with a compass becomes hard and mentally taxing.

                       UNSEEN SNOW COVERED HAZARDS

                         Use your poles to probe snow ahead and try to stay on track.
                          Some parts of the Course are close to features called SINK HOLES. These resemble massive funnels in the ground . at the centre of some of these you may find a mine shaft type drop into caves below. They can be incredibly dangerous and should be avoided 
.( The worst of these are found between CROSS FELL  top and GREGS HUT . On no account cut the corner in this area.   It is worth looking at your map to see the area I am referring to.  


                    WHITE OUT NAVIGATION


                        WHITE OUTS WITH NO TRACE OF PATH 
            This has happened tome several times on the Spine in falling  snow and fog .
            To carry on you need your GPS out and checked as often as possible . (Map work where you can't even tell if you are ascending or descending is near impossible) If you have a recording of a Recce trace you move on keeping the little arrow of your current track slap bang on top of the recce track.
        Failing having a Recce Track then use the GPS base map Pennine Way track.
        Spine GPX way points although better than early editions are not as good as a GPS Track log.
         Night constant referral to GPS screen will rapidly suck the energy out of your GPS batteries (the screen light draws a high current) .
         Never leave a CP with partly discharged Batteries in your GPS.   24 hour normal use battery life can be reduced to 4 on some models with constant use !
         AVOID CHANGING BATTERIES OUTSIDE IN RAIN OR SNOW on many models there are moisture sensitive components just under the Batteries. ( just take a look inside  your own GPS!)

                     CONFUSED  PATHS IN WHITEOUTS
                      This can be as bad as no path .  You start following one and it peters  out or veer off in the wrong direction . This can happen on rough hill side( like the ascent of Shunner Fell)  , in marshy bogs (such as those after Tan Hill )  And also in any area of multiple snow tracks especially where previous runners have been searching for a good line . The strategy should be the same ---Get Navigating!
                     

                   RAIN

                         In Spine conditions Rain is never fun . Rain means damp which means cold.
                          I have encountered continuous rain (for our 6 hr periods) during the spine and provided the wind is not that strong it is bearable. Wind driven rain is a whole lot harder.
                         You will be dipping into your pack and fiddling with gear multiple times during the race . Most times this involves taking off your Gloves and getting your hands wet. It does not matter how Bomb Proof your Gloves are ,if your hands are soaked they are probably going to get cold even inside your gloves .  (In freezing conditions this is less of an issue)
                         When you combine high winds with rain water is driven through any crack in your  shell layer defences .
                        Give the choice between wet drizzle blown by wind in +5c and half a gale in -8c then I would pick the sub zero conditions every time.


                          WET GROUND.

                        For 50% of likely  spine time you should count on having wet lower legs. It could be only outside your shoes or gaiters but it will get wet.  
                        This is why I recommend Capri type leggings /tights combined with long wool blend socks.
                         If you are forced to stop and Bivvi or even in fast transit CP's you only have to remove your socks to get comfy . If it is rainy and you need to get in a Bivvi bag fast then you can do so still wearing Capri tights without getting your sleeping bag wet. Your socks can stay outside still wet as you have dry spare pairs in your pack . Getting out of full length tights fast in rain is near impossible.
                         There is also an advantage in Sleeping CP's Capri tights probably won't need drying or changing so you don't need so many pairs of tights in your Drop Bag.

                         

                         THE BOOT  V  TRAIL SHOE  ISSUE ( Water Depth)

                        

                        In sub zero hard frosts (SPINE 2012,2013) The Racers never  encountered water deep enough to flood a boot (Except by accidentally falling into streams)
                        Most years the only way of keeping your feet dry in Boots was to make detours.
                        Using trail shoes and long waterproof socks you can normally just plough on through all but the deepest water.
                       The main object of using Boots is to keep your feet dry and ventilated.  If your Boots get flooded early in the race you are stuck with damp  feet until the next CP when you need time to properly dry your Boot
                           Forget about waterproof trail shoes,  they are gust a bad compromise . 
                           Most Runners use Trail Shoes with either thick Wool Socks or Waterproof Socks .
                           A Waterproof Sock despite the makers claim will never keep you as dry as a non flooded boot.
                          Waterproof  socks do not breath as effectively as a Boot.
                          As for what type of shoe /Boot ,i will come back to that later.




                   MOVING WATER 

Picture By  David Riley of recce  session .


   
            The separate day  Challenger and Spine Starts in 2017 gave the day one different packs  totally different trail conditions.: 
                                          Challengers were faced with snow and obscured tracks.           
                                          The main Spine Race started a day later as the snow was  rapidly melting . Snow melt can produce vast volumes of run off water in a very short time . The Stream Crossings encountered before CP1 caused major issues . Runners had to make major detours up stream of Kinder Downfall  to find safe  places were they could wade across . The situation was even worse for slower runners as the water volume rapidly increased as snow melt accelerated.
          Crossing the steep stream gully leading to Torside Clough  involved jumping and for some an unplanned swim.
           The following You tube Clip  of Kinder Downfall Crossing (8Km From Dale) was made by Bruce Ballagher .   Bruce was kind enough to record  his thoughts on the situation that faced him.


                       


                            Guidelines For Crossing Fast / Deep Moving  Water 

            FAST MOVING WATER CAN KILL!

            1 AVOID if at all possible (look on your map for a bridge )
            2 Head Upstream as volume reduces upstream.
            3 If you can't safely jump then look for wider places where the water should be flowing slower.
            4 Study the entry and exit to the water . Is it safe to get in and out? 
            5  Check for hazards downstream . (Water can trap you against a fence)
            6 Team up with others . (delay crossing solo if you are worried)
            7 Check your shoes and gear before entering water ( no loose laces or open pack Zips . Are the locks on telescopic poles tight? )
            8 Take it slowly using your pole /poles to establish a leaning post upstream of your legs before moving your feet.
            9 Try to maintain maximum contact with the stream bed  (Min one foot and pole at all times )
            
             Double check pack dry bag liners ( possibly transferring  normally exposed gear such as gloves  into the dry bags .
             Reconsider turning back!
             
             Note crossing fast water requires applying  SMJ . There many other factors you may have to consider which I will not get into in this blog.

           

          FOOTWEAR RECONSIDERED
          Crossing  a Stream and falling will probably lead to a DNF .
          Stream beds with fast water are made of slippery Rocks .
          You need really GOOD  WET ROCK GRIP  to stay upright.
          One again a fall on mud  just gets you muddy . Falling on rock is almost always more serious.
          When choosing  footwear sole selection  the ability to handle wet rock should be your priority.

                             STILL WATER
                 Many parts of the course can be covered by still water wide puddles.
                 The water is usually muddy so you need to use your poles to probe for depth and ditches .
                 If an area is flooded there may be an overloaded  hidden drainage ditch below the surface.


                                                    ICE CONDITIONS

                 Having completed 1000+ Spine Miles I can confirm I only encountered   a total of 100 meters of unavoidable Sheet Ice .  
                  Novice Racers freak out about FROZEN FLAGSTONES.  (Their fear is unjustified)
                  Flagstones are laid to protect Bogs . If the frost is severe enough to form sheet ice on the flagstones, then the crust of bog alongside the flags will probably be hard enough to run on .
                  Frozen bog crust : dirt , ice, grass mix is really grippy to run on .

                  SHORT  FLAGSTONE BRIDGES.  OVER MINOR STREAMS
                  You will encounter several of these on day one of the race.

                   Flagstonetone Bridges  are often coated in black ice even when the rest of the trail is clear.


                  THE REST OF THE COURSE
                  Your  ice problems will be worse  on north facing (usually down hill rocky trails)
                  The most ice prone part of the whole Spine is the section  below Cauldron Snout. Spray from the waterfall and shade from the valley sides can lead to a coating on the boulders. This area will be surveyed by the race safety team and a diversion put in place if found to be dangerous.

                   The solution for ice is to use Traction aids . They must be robust ,light and above all easy to put on and take off .
                   From experience I would recommend Yaktrax Pro . They work in mixed conditions and make minimum drag on your feet . They are also easy to clip onto the front of your pack for convenient access. Avoid the small mini spike dog walking traction aids (The Spine will rapidly destroy them)
                    Practise running in your traction aids before the race . You don't need snow as they should work fine in Mud .
                     Traction aids work brilliantly on slush covered slippy steep grass. Putting them on instantly upgrades your trail shoes into ultra grippy mud shoes.



             TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY

      There is no doubt that the Spine Race is safer now than it was in the early years.
      Trackers allow your position to be monitored (apart from a few blackspot).
      The Race "Mountain Safety Teams "are out there to support you but .
      The MSTeams are made of volunteers (often Spine Vets).  The teams have many miles of course to cover and racers can be tens of miles apart. Access to parts of the course is difficult.
       Moving a team from one location to another further up the course can take hours.
       Communication between teams and race control can be difficult.
       Several runners may need help at the same time .

        The MST capability  should not be confused with that of the better trained and equipped local Mountain Rescue Teams .

ALWAYS MAKE ANY  RISK JUDGEMENT DECISION  on the basis that if all goes wrong you will have to get yourself out of the SHIT! (without relying on outside help)

      

                      

                      Coping with bad  weather  is all about understanding the forecast and possible impact on your race plan. 
                       Getting an accurate assessment of forecast implications is vital for your race . 



             Safety And Systems Malfunctions .

   We tend to think that rescue and evacuations are a result of sudden situations such as breaking a leg or popping a knee ligament.   This can and has happened but in reality most rescue scenarios are a result of  a long chain of minor issues.  
   The Spine is a race characterised by attrition of your body and systems.
   By systems I am referring to the interaction between your kit and how your whole body functions.


   Experience in the hills is one of the main predictors of who will finish this race. Many top flight racers will crash out of the Spine because they do not have experience of maintaining their body when conditions get to the point where there is no way they can run out of trouble. 
   The overseas runners are particularly prone to have a race plan that relies on stripped down light weight kit to help them utilise speed as a survival tool.

   At any point in the race a runner will be generating heat and should in theory balance the clothing they are wearing to maintain a comfortable body temp.  To some extent if things get colder (temp+wind chill) then the runner can push harder to generate more heat.  The down side is that in a race this long the runner really needs to move at a sustainable pace over long periods.

   If you are feeling cold you have two choices :1  Move Faster 
                                                                            2  Stop and adjust what you are wearing .

    The choice you make will be heavily influenced by your attitude to racing and possibly fear .
    Highly competitive runners will find it mentally difficult to pause especially if fighting minor skirmishes with near rivals . They tend to push on rather than sort themselves out . This is not true of all the podium contenders . Runners like Eoin Kieth and Pavel ,both with Adventure racing experience are much happier to run their own race . ( loosing ground  in the short term is looked at as a better long term plan.)
   Past Spine experience also really helps in knowing if a less exposed part to the trail lies a short way  ahead.  For the first time Spine racer without having done any recce runs then the best trail forecast comes from maps . GRP reliant racers normally only mentally  exist in the area shown on the screen (usually less than 500mtrs).

     For the less experienced and confident  novice runner your bigger issue clouding judgement  is fear !
     Less confident runners tend to move in packs .
     Each pack is led by a more confident navigator who often sets the pace.
     Personal sustainable pace is not the same thing as group pace .
     Balancing your heat energy production and loss requirements  will differ enormously between different runners . It follows that to stay comfortably warm whilst moving in a group your only option is to have the correct amount of clothing on . To achieve this you may have to stop and adjust things .
   
       HOW DO YOU DO THIS IN A LARGE GROUP?
      If each individual stops at different times the group will slow up . It is much better to split groups into smaller numbers . Pairs probably work best.
       The key to the whole thing is being brutally honest with each other . Discuss how you feel about pace , sleepiness and having someone rely on your navigation.
        If you are struggling to keep up then say so but offer or ask for ideas  such as planning to wait at the next marshaled point where you could leave the group and possibly warm up in a Marshall's car .


        IN ALMOST ALL CASES IF YOU ARE GETTING COLD YOU SHOULD PUT ON WARMER CLOTHS RATHER THAN SPEEDING UP.

         PACKING YOUR ADDITIONAL  LAYER CHANGES.

          Before leaving any CP think about your working spare layers . They need to be  handy on the outside of your pack and not buried in the bottom. You should use at least two bin liners to isolate your emergency gear such as sleeping bag from the packs working contents . If you are forced to layer up in the rain you don't want to make everything damp by having the packs contents in one dry bag.

          Some items of gear can be quick change items such as additional hats and gloves . These should be stored in front pockets or front pouch so you can grab them without stopping.

           STOPPING ON THE TRAIL
     This will slow you up and unless you are actually inside as soon as you halt you will cool down rapidly.  
     Cooling rapidly on the Spine occurs fastest in wet windy conditions . If it is well below zero it is easier to cope as gear and you will be less damp. 

      The seeds of hypothermia are usually felt in your extremities . Most potential heat loss comes from the head . ( I would recommend a warm insulated  waterproof hat rather than relying on your jackets storm hood .)
      Gloves will always give you issues in the wet . Keeping water from seeping between selves and inside of glove in windy rain is near impossible . If its wet and windy then you need glove liners that keep you warm when soaked . The same is true for inner socks .  Good Wool is better than any synthetic no matter what the makers claim.

       A full system disfunction often starts with cold hands . Without good manual dexterity you probably won't use your available kit to it's maximum advantage . You will also find eating a real chore.
      Packing  chemical hand warmers could save your race. Once you cease looking after yourself you are on a steep downward slippery slope. The slope will get much steeper if you lack sleep.

        From what I recall of previous Spines most of the wet and windy weather has occurred early in the race . The final exposed  haul over the Cheviots has usually  been cold windy, snowy or bright .
     
         Everyone leaving CP5 needs to double check gear and take extra for the last leg . No matter what this leg throws at you, your body and ability to make good decisions will be severely tested  over the Cheviots. Chronic Sleep deprivation can lead to irrational behaviour over this leg .
          

     
        For the last two years I have worked with the logistics team shifting drop bags . I also tend to get stuck in manning reception at the boot rooms where incoming runners like to unload their feelings about the course, conditions  and other runner s .
        Runner interaction and friction issues tend not to get discussed much at the early CP's but later on when chronic sleep deprivation has kicked in there can be thinly disguised hostility between some runners .
        Its your cash that paid for the race and you are allowed to get grumpy at times but try to speak out before tempers are lost .
        Most Ultra Runners can be considered as not normal . You will make firm friends with some but others will drain your energy .


                  



                            
                          

                         
          

           






         


Thursday, 10 November 2016

Spine Race Report 2013




    Friday night and 12 hours to  the start of the 2013 Spine Race

         Racing the whole of the Pennine Way in January Can’t hurt that much. Can it?

Here I am in the back of my van starting my final prep for the Spine.  Typically I have left everything to the last minute.  The current problem is how to pack all I might need in my drop bag.  It all comes down to what could be a crucial choice - tent or bivi bag?   I know I won’t make CP2 at a sensible time so I err on comfort rather than lightweight.  The tent it is!  The same goes for the choice of the faster cooking MSR Gas stove over super light weight’ fuel tablet’ stove. The stove choice proved particularly important 6 days later.
Back in the race HQ others are making similar decisions. We worry about the weight of our packs. How much we carry is the only thing we can change at this late stage. Few of us appreciate that it,s the small decisions we make  out on the trail  that will really make the difference.

          I ponder why I am here and feel a bit of a fraud (I have not even paid to enter for god’s sake!).  Last year I entered the Spine Challenger but had to pull out at the last minute.  I passed on my entry to fellow Totnes Runner Mark Brooks.

Mark was not at all keen to enter, as he hates cold weather.  He came up with a list of excuses: no bivi bag, no traction aids, no decent sleeping bag, no transport. To each excuse he came up with, I supplied the solution.  My parting words as he left for Edale in my van were, “ If you win the Spine Challenger you can let me have your prize of free entry to the 2013 Spine”. 

He won and so here I am.

Day One  only 268 miles to go.


As expected the majority of the pack rushed off up the hill.  Racing was not part of my plan.  As a 57 year old plodder with nothing to prove I knew I could make it to CP2 and that anything else would be a bonus.  As for finishing the Spine, if I did that I would be chuffed to bits!  For now I had only one aim, to get up to Kinder Scout without breaking into a sweat.

I stopped several times to change layers.  I have to control my body temperature .The heat I produce must match the heat lost. If I run hot or cold I am just wasting energy. On shorter runs up to say 12 hours you can get away with things but this race is different.

The Kinder Plateau gave me an early wake up call.  I slipped into race mode picking off several runners until I took a wrong turn at Kinder Downfall.  I am an orienteer and I didn’t even have my map out!  The Spine had given me my first gentle kick; a more serious beating was soon to follow.

The rest of that day can best be described as a settling in period.  A bitterly cold wind blew from the east and we runners started to form up in groups , each following a navigator.  I found myself at the front on map and compass with someone else on GPS cross checking our track.  All was well as where the path was indistinct or branching  as it forced concentration.  The Spine however could never be taken for granted.

Our group soon found ourselves following a good obvious path but we were heading SW on Castleshaw Moor.  Somehow we had all stopped navigating, missed a junction and were now 1.5km off track!  There was a recovery path marked on my OS map but it was too indistinct to follow on the ground.  This left us with a run along a Pennine bridleway and 2km of road to get back on track.  Total time lost about one hour.  That second kick hurt!

Soon it was lights on time and the group began to work better together.  Two  of us navigating and those with good night vision spotting the indistinct path among boulders dusted by snow and ice.

We arrived at the next road checkpoint.  This is was where I made my worst decision of the whole race!

I was hungry , very hungry but stupidly I decided to pass the brightly lit pub and stick with the group.
  Several more runners had joined us and we were on a fast, flat wide track.  The pace quickened with someone calling out our speed.  Subtly the group was speeding up.  Within a few km I knew I was running over pace and the hunger was turning into that old familiar slightly nauseous feeling that warns of imminent throwing up!  The pace slackened on the more technical ground for the last 5km to CP1 but the damage was already  done.

I arrived at the CP, got my feet sorted and then tried to eat and drink.  Not long after I threw up.  When I get into that state my face drains of color and my lips go purple.   This has happened to me many times before. (I usually crawl on and recover.)  This time I was immediately grabbed by the Medics , declared an emergency, told to lie down and get some tubes of dextrose, coke and porridge down me. 

You don’t argue with the Spine Medics.  I was on final warning!  I managed to do as I was told, crawling onto a bunk and eventually falling to sleep  despite the dorm door banging near my bunk.

I woke up to find my appetite had returned.  After a stiff talking to by the head Medic I was allowed to go on, having promised to up my fluid and food intake.

Day two - 45 miles done


       Setting off just before dawn a new group had formed .We quickly got back into eating up the miles.  I had learnt my lesson the previous day and resolved to run at my own pace and stuff my face all day.  If any one else wanted to tag along at my pace, that was fine but I would not wait or pass any food stops.

Group running on long ultras is more complex than you may think.  In a group of say four runners , the navigator will lead.  Perhaps two runners will cruise at below their sustainable pace  ,saving the energy it takes to navigate.  Any other runners are probably being pulled along at above their sustainable pace, not wanting to leave the comfort of the group. Inevitably they suffer and gradually go down hill.

I personally reckon groups of two or three work best.  I had also noticed on day one that the runners with support crews tended to stop at every road head and take advantage of their crews, leaving the rest of the group shivering while they waited.  Supported and unsupported runners don’t always work well together.

The composition of our band gradually changed and I found my self running with an Irish lad, Eamonn, and Andy, a young guy who lives only five miles from my home.  Navigation duties meshed well as Eamonn had a good GPS and Andy a booklet with detailed maps and notes on the route.  We made small detours at times to visit cafes, pubs and the Gargrave Co-op pie display. I grabbed 4 pies eating one even before I got to the till.

We were making steady progress.  Dave Lee joined us. Dave was the only competitor older than me and the only one I felt I wanted to beat.  Dave is a vastly experienced and tough  runner in his 60’s    Perhaps we both wanted to be group leader?  but there was a definite tension between us. He later told me he felt exactly the same way about me.

Dave had walked the Pennine Way twice before and knew some of it really well.  We all shared the navigation.  We got as far as Malham Cove but then  everything went pear shaped.  The trail was hidden by snow and due to the steep climbs we were trying to navigate in 3D on a 2D map.

We came to the end of a blind gorge which Dave was convinced was not on the trail, so we must be way off course. The GPS was having difficulty keeping a signal. Backtracking only made things worse but eventually a GPS grid fix confirmed we were on course.  We eventually located steps hidden in the snow leading up comb hill.  It was a real relief to arrive at the CP 1.5 tent at Malham Tarn.

Eamonn pushed on with Andy, as he was worried about the cut off for the Spine Challenger. I don’t recall if Dave camped or pushed on.

After a quick drink of tea I scuttled outside to put up my tent.  The snowy ground was covered in bodies holed up in bivi bags.  My TN laser tent took no time to erect despite the frozen ground . I was soon cooking up beef hot pot and Ovaltine.  Alarm set for four hours sleep and toasty warm, I went out like a light.

Day three - about 90 miles done


Still dark so I fired up the gas stove for porridge and Ovaltine, whilst I re packed.  I could hear others emerging from their bivi bags trying to get warm.  Thank god for my tent! I was in much better shape than the others around me .

I was running solo again, navigating well and keeping a lookout for tracks in the snow.  It’s easy to stop navigating and rely on following  others tracks but what with sheep and cows hoofs churning up the footprints, you have to keep concentrating.

I soon overhauled a group of four lead by Jenn Gaskell.  Jenn is over thirty years younger than me.  She is sponsored by Montane and, unlike me, actually wins Ultras!

Jenn was holding back as a couple of the lads in her group were struggling. On a race like The Spine you need to run at your own pace.  Staying with the lads was doing no one any favour's. 
  Jenn’s and my pace were better matched so after a quick word with the others she joined me and we pushed ahead.

Jenn, the young Racehorse, and I, the old Carthorse seemed outwardly to be a mismatched pair. We powered up and over the spectacular snow covered heights of Pen-y-ghent.  We ran on down to the café in Horton only to discover it was closed Mondays!

Climbing back up the hill we recalled the pre -race briefing:  The 2013 Spine had been shortened missing out the Horton dogleg and about 3.5km, including a big climb.  We had lost well over an hour and the other  lads had caught us up again.  Still we felt we had done the “proper Spine route”.   Re passing the lads. A freezing wind blasted us from the east but we hardly noticed as we chatted all the way to Haws.  (110 miles completed.)

We had our feet sorted and wolfed down the hot food.  Before leaving Hawes I raided the local butchers and carried of several pies and some local cheese.
Many runners only carry specialised energy foods such as jells and energy bars to save on weight.  I find I need salty foods and solid carbs. As a self confessed pig and carthorse I am not so bothered about the weight. If it’s not the sort of thing I would raid the fridge for, then it has no place in my pack . One superb “Spine Snack” I used were a large jacket potato cooked in the CP with half a stock cube inserted in it. This is foil wrapped put in a plastic bag then stowed inside my down jacket. It will stay warm for up to 6 hrs in my pack . Hot food  and warm hands , a real boost at low moments.  I also used sachets of HP sauce squeezed directly into my mouth to keep awake!( I have never trusted the Caffeine type supplements that can mess up your head)
My body is not so much ‘ A Temple ‘ as a ‘Council Waste Food Processing Plant’.

 Night fell and our route now took us up into the snow covered heights of Shunner Fell.
Conditions were atrocious.  With a howling wind, spindrift and no trace of the trail. We used  Jenn’s Garmin Oregon GPS to keep us on track.  (visibility was so bad that it was difficult to read any contours ) We waded, lurching forward through the boulders.  The snow was deep, up to waist height in places.  Behind us blowing snow immediately filled in our tracks.  Our water bottles had all frozen up and the going was getting tougher. This was survival racing, pushing onwards in our own little world.   Jenn trudged just behind me walking in my footprints. I was on autopilot mode (head down and pushing on)

I shouted back to Jenn, “are you ok?”  Her reply was instant.  “I’m having the best time of my life!”  I was shocked to realise  I felt the same.  Here we were, two  miss matched knackered runners, short on sleep, fighting our way through a snow storm up an invisible boulder strewn path in the middle of the night   This was totally nuts and utterly wonderful!

We never stopped chatting that night and I soon found my roll had changed.  Jenn wanted to be the first woman to finish the Spine Race and my new mission was to help her every way I could.  This took even more pressure off me and raised our already high morale still higher.

Team Age Gap Warming Up.
‘Team-Age-Gap’, as we called ourselves, was on a roll.  We would run until the early hours, and then make camp at the Tan Hill Pub, the highest pub in the UK.

The race organisers had been talking to the barman at the Tan Hill pub. He was keen to help the racers  and we had been given his phone number.  I phoned him at about 10 pm to let him know that we would not get there till 3am. I asked where would be the best place to put up the tent?  I was astonished when he said that if we arrived any time before 3 am we should shout outside his bedroom window and he would let us in to sleep on the pub floor! Who was this saint?

Team-Age-Gap eventually got to the pub at 2.45.  I found myself standing on snow covered table shouting up at various windows, watched by two bemused sheep.  I was trying to shout, yet  being terribly British and trying not to make too much noise at the same time.

No response.  Now what?  Jenn shone her torch through the ground floor window.  Russ, another Spiner, had been kipping on the bar floor.  He woke up and let us in.  A warm room, running water, carpet, cushions and sofas - for us, sheer bliss.  We hung our wet gear over  the stools and tables  in the lounge bar and Within minutes we were asleep.

Day four - 130 miles done


Up before dawn, and despite eating some cold leftover chips we found , starving again!  Decided to fire up my stove outside - I did not want to set off any smoke alarms.  Opening the fire door I was confronted by the two sheep who seemed intent on breaking into the pub!  I knew it was cold outside but if the local sheep were seeking shelter it must be bloody freezing!  Two hot meals and a bowl of porridge later we were ready to go.

The barman came down stairs and offered to cook us breakfast.  He was a real star.  He even apologised for not waking up!

We learned he had just returned from ‘a Cage Fighting Tour’ of the US.  Jenn now knows  all of the seven moves you are not allowed to do to your opponent in a Cage Fight so you had better not mess with her!

Just as we started Dave Lee appeared.  He looked wiped out, having not slept for forty plus hours.  I suggested he go into the pub where our new Cage Fighting Friend would make him breakfast.  Dave would have none of it.  He wanted to come on with us.

My last memory of the pub was the sight of our Cage Fighting Friend standing in the snow feeding the pubs two pet sheep.

I phoned race control to give them an update on Jenn and I and also of Dave,s condition.  Dave promptly shot off ahead but we soon came across him brewing up food.   For the next few hours Dave kept  yo-yoing around us but never at a steady pace. We found his behaviour very disconcerting.

About 10km short of the CP at Middleton, Dave vanished completely.  I phoned race control again and suggested they send someone to escort him in to the checkpoint.
 Locating the Middleton CP proved to be a real pain but eventually we arrived and Jenn’s Mother did a great job of looking after us both.  Dave soon arrived and was prescribed; ‘a good nights sleep’.  Jenn and I showered, ate and crashed in the bunks intending to sleep for four hours.  One hour later my head was still buzzing.
“ Hey Jen, you asleep?”
“ No, I don’t think I can.”
“ Me neither.  Do you want to hit the trail?”
“Yes, let’s go for it!”

We arranged with Jenn’s mother to meet us in Dufton at 8 am, where we would sleep in her car for a few hours.

The path now ran along the Tees towards Cow Green Reservoir and the falls at Cauldron Snout.  We had been given special instructions on how to pass the Falls but long before we got there we found the trail disappeared among massive boulders alongside the icy rushing water.  There were several sets of footprints leading up a near vertical slope away from the water.  We followed them up and over 2 km of horrendous energy sapping  boggy ground towards the lights of Cow Green Dam.  We never did see the Falls!   Far  ahead in the distance we thought we could see runners lights . We passed the Dam and followed a wide, gradually climbing track.

Day five


 Around 3 am Jenn dramatically started to fall apart.  I had not realised that she had just not been eating enough.  Without food she did not have the energy to generate enough speed to keep warm.  Once this cycle starts it’s difficult to reverse especially for a well trained runner with a minimum of body fat.  The early stages of hypothermia set in. Running with a partner  during high altitude cold night sections can be vital as your decision making ability can quickly goes down the pan!

Jenn was desperate to stop and camp - not, I felt, a safe option.  I argued that her mother would be waiting for her with a nice warm car in Dutton.  If we stopped on the high exposed ground she would get even colder and find re starting even more difficult. ( we needed to get down off the cold high ground as fast as we could)

I fed Jenn on shotblocks  and lent her my down jacket.  Crawling along at a snails pace  she could not warm up.  My next step was to carry her pack, take her arm and frog march her forward.  This helped but progress was difficult on the icy, rutted track whilst trying to carry two packs.  Jenn put her pack back on, as it helped keep her back warm, and I dragged and chivvied her foreword despite her pleas for us to stop.

Dawn broke as we crawled past the spectacular High Cup Nick but Jenn was past caring.  I phoned race control again to update them  of Jenn’s situation and to make sure her mother and the promised “nice warm car” would be waiting in Dufton.

The ground sloped downward and a battered Team-Age-Gap  eventually shuffled into Dufton.

We arrived in a deserted Dufton only to find no car!  I sat Jenn on a bench, draped my sleeping bag around her and brewed up hot drinks preparing to put the tent up on the snow covered village green.

Much to my relief Jenn’s mother soon arrived with hot soup and food.  Her car looked, to a 6ft 2ins bloke, very small but somehow we both folded ourselves into the back . The strange angle of the folded back seats caused my calf to cramp but soon I dozed of.

We woke after about two hours.  The Dufton pub had opened and we all trooped inside to  eat chips and plan our next move.  I half expected Jenn to quit there and then but she was determined to go on. She had to make her own decisions.

I had my doubts that Jenn could go much further so we agreed that Jenn’s mum (An experienced hill walker) would  come with us for a while to see how Jenn felt.

Jenn was okay on the level path out of Dufton but as soon as we started to climb she slowed down and burst into tears.  Jenn could see that she was still struggling and was mortified that she might be ruining any chance I had of finishing the Spine. We could all see that this was probably true. Short of carrying her there was nothing more I could do to help her.  I reluctantly agreed that I would push on alone and Jenn would join the following, hopefully slower, group.

After a tearful parting I carried on up towards Cross Fell.  Looking back ten minutes later there was no sign of Jenn or her Mum.  The snow deepened on the exposed fell side and the wind was rising again.  I was deeply troubled that Jenn might not be able to keep up with the second group and try to go it alone! I felt I terribly responsible for her safety.

A local fell runner appeared heading to Dufton.  I gave him a message for Jenn telling her of the harsh conditions on the higher ground and that on no account should she run solo.

 I was physically strong but lack of sleep meant my  emotions were on a constant knife edge. About five minutes later I got a text from Jenn’s Mum saying Jenn had realised she could not carry on and they were walking together back to Dufton.  I fell to my knees in the snow and wept, partly from relief but also from knowing how much Jenn had wanted to complete the Spine.

Jenn and I had gained so much strength from each other and now it was up to me to finish this race for both of us!  Besides which, somewhere up ahead was the German Team!

The climb up to Cross Fell seemed to go on for hours with several false summits but at least I had daylight and tracks to follow.  I climbed past the Domes on top of one of the fells and peered through the glass at a scientist working inside. It looked warm and inviting inside but like  part of a James Bond film set.

Just before the summit I came across a sight that reminded me of how dangerous the fells could be.  The trail was invisible but for a few exposed flagstones.  I came across two stones with a gap of six inches between them.  Below the gap was a drop of two feet to a stream.  Anyone following the flagstones could easily have put a foot down the gap, instantly breaking their leg and in these conditions this could be fatal!

I pushed on harder wanting to get out of the danger zone and down to Greg’s Hut before dusk.

Greg’s Hut was a welcome respite.  John Bamber and the medics seemed to fill the place with good cheer, making it difficult to leave.  I had tea and soup then said my farewell and continued down the track.  100 meters later I realized I had left my remaining walking pole back at the Hut!  Cursing I ran back up the hill then started again.

I had hoped to make good time on this track but it was coated in ice and strewn with boulders.  The track also divided in places, then re joined.  None of these junctions appeared on my map and I was losing confidence in my navigation.  Progress was frustratingly slow and by the time I got to Garrigill I was well and truly knackered.

A small pub lifted my spirits.  I fell through the door, ordered a pint of Coke and asked if they had any food. Unfortunately they were short staffed and no longer serving food.
 Looking round I noticed several plates of half eaten food. No one appeared to be guarding them so I sloped over and eat the lot. On looking up I saw a middle aged couple staring  at me.
 “Come far? ”the man asked, nervously.
 Edale I muttered“ I am running the Pennine Way.
 They were confused and worried by my answer.
 My gaze kept drifting towards their plates.
 Luckily the man was a real fan of Ray Mears  survival programs on "Dave". This was one of those "facing death situations". At last he had a chance to  put in  practise what Ray had taught him. 
 He knew what to do : Give the Bear what it  wants , don’t make eye contact and back away slowly! The drooling animal before him with no manners and staring bloodshot eyes, certainly stank  and  acted like a Bear.
The couple abandoned their food , backed out the door . I moved in and  shamelessly cleaned their plates.
Grunting my thanks to the remaining customers I lurched back out into the night.
A minute later one of the pub locals came running after me with my pole which I had left in the pub. I stuffed it into the top of my pack and pushed on.


Garrigill to the CP at Alston is only about 7km but again progress was slow.  My brain wasn’t working properly and I kept making navigation errors.  I passed about 2km of fields covered in rock solid frozen molehills.  I have never seen so many in one place.  I don’t think I was hallucinating but I was in no position to judge myself.  Each molehill was like a mini tank trap ready to break a runner’s toes. The mole hills were followed by a narrow track with overhanging branches which kept snagging my pole but I was to tired to stow the pole properly.


At last Alston CP, food and a few hours sleep.  Rather annoyingly the hostel drying room heaters were not switched on so I had to dangle my wet garments over the radiators before retiring to bed.  Keeping my feet dry was vital to prevent Trench Foot. Jenn was somewhere in the hostel fast asleep.  I never did see her.

Day 6  - 200 miles - somebody stop me!


I planned to be off by 7am.  Russell  Swift wanted to run with me but was not ready by 7.  With three breakfasts inside me I could not wait.  The German team where about two hours ahead and I was determined to catch them!

Within the first five minutes I made a navigation error, which cost me time. As an Orienteer I must confess to being a bit of a navigational snob. I hate the idea of the GPS.  Now I needed to use all the tools at my disposal.  I reluctantly fished out my base model Garmin E Trex, determined to teach myself how to use it on a good trail in daylight.  Unlike  Jenn’s Garmin Oregon  my GPS had no base map so I had to use the waypoints supplied by the Spine Team. All was fine if I had a visible path to follow but once it was obscured by snow I frequently ended up running through a bog parallel to a good flagged path. The waypoints were set just to far apart.  Map and compass proved faster than my GPS in daylight.

It soon became apparent that I was physically and mentally changed.  I was running faster than at any time during the race.  I had plenty to eat and energy to spare.  Somehow over the last five days I had re-programmed my body, turning me into an eating running machine!

I was high as a kite whooping with joy, tracking Germans.  The only ones missing  from this rapturous scene was Jenn and my the  two dogs: Scooby and Suki, who I love to take running with me across Dartmoor .   I felt like Jim Carrey’s character in the film "The Mask" shouting out "somebody stop me!"  It’s a good thing the Spine medics were not around as they would have withdrawn me from the race for mental instability!

The ground flew by; at times I was hitting 7mph according to my GPS.  The sun came out for a time but the bogs were still frozen enough  to run over without getting the dreaded wet feet.

Next big landmark - Hadrian’s Wall.  Here the Pennine Way ran east into a biting cold wind.  The Spine team met me at one of the road crossings.

Conrad, one of the race organisers, ran with me for a while.  We chatted about how the runners felt about the race and how it could be improved for next year.

The subject of food came up and I confessed I could kill for a Camembert cheese or two. He thought for a while and replied "how about Brie?”   Yes, I said, three would be better!  Once my confusion had been sorted I learnt that Conrad lived nearby.  He had had a ‘Brie or two’ in his fridge and made a quick phone call.  One hour later, at the next road head, I was handed two Brie cheeses.

Dusk fell again and I parted with Conrad, turning north again towards a forested area.  I had been warned that there were two dangerous bogs before the forest and I must stick to the flagstones!  The snow had hardened and with no visible trail or footprints I struck out across open ground following the GPS waypoint line.  I found the bog but no flagstones.  A detour of 90 degrees left and right revealed nothing so nervously I tiptoed my way across the bog.  The same thing happened at the second bog.  I knew what was happening, I was running parallel to the trail but in these conditions unless I hit the flagstones spot on I could not find it!

The bogs had slowed me down but worse was to follow.  On entering the forest the main track was often joined by wide forest rides.  In the dark the rides were indistinguishable from the Pennine Way itself. The GPS waypoints did not take into account the winding of the trail so several times I found myself running up dead ends.  Not all the rides were shown on the OS map so I found myself frequently back tracking!

My worst moment came when I ran 500 meters up a blind ride.  I figured out from a GPS fix that the main trail was about 30 meters to the east.  The branches on the trees were so low that I was forced to take my pack off and crawl on my belly, dragging my pack behind me.  Once back on the path I was back up to speed again. A few minutes later I noticed I had lost my waterproof thermal cap.  There was no chance of finding it if I had lost it while crawling through the trees. It was a bitter blow.

The rest of that night was spent in much the same frustrating way. In low visibility missing the trail by  just 3 meters can be enough  to stop you dead.  My curses could have been heard for miles. Often I had to climb barbed wire topped walls as I could not make out  which way the gates were located.

At one point I came to a fairly wide river.  The map indicated a footbridge but none was apparent despite searching the bank up and down stream.  Eventually, muttering curses, I entered the foot deep ice cold  water avoiding the rafts of snow floating down stream. 200 meters later I came upon an obstacle that made me laugh out loud.  Before me was a farmyard with a 20 foot high pile of steaming cow dung and according to my GPS, the waypoint was smack bang in its centre!  Someone back at Spine HQ had a sense of humour.

It was with some relief that I eventually arrived at the Bellingham CP.  All the extra speed on that leg had been for nothing as the night navigation errors had wiped out all the time gained.

CP 5 was where my race was changed yet again.  We were due for 65 mph winds, -8oC and a blizzard!  With the forecast that bad I feared my race was over.

The Spine team called a conference.  It was decided that the only safe way the race could go on was if the remaining runners formed up in two teams.   I was to join Michael, Jin, Thomas, Anna and Brian and we would set off in three hours, at 5 am.  The second team of Dave, Annie and Russell (who arrived at CP5 a little later) would follow at 6 am. 

None of us fully appreciated it at that time but The Spine Race was about to get a lot more serious!

Day 7 - 222 miles done - 45 miles to go!


Russ Ladkins was carried  in to the Bellingham CP  by the medics.  Russ had been ahead of us but had to quit when his digestive system shut down and he became crippled by cramps .  Russ was put on a plasma drip with  two of the medics  watching  over him while he tried to get some sleep.  All this activity was happening  in the bed next to me. I got next to no sleep.
 I was also worried about the next leg and my lost hat problem. I was considering cutting up my towel and wrapping  it around my head for extra insulation.
 Much to my relief I was reunited with my thermal cap which the second team had found on Hadrians Wall. I knew I would need all my extra  kit to stay warm and safe over the coming leg. Preparing my pack I estimated I would be carrying over 10Kg. 


Five am arrived and we were briefed on what was to come.  Anna was given a GPS tracker that would continually transmit our position on a Google Earth  to race control.  The tracker could be used to signal race control of problems (amber light) or too  transmit an emergency signal.  For now it would be on plain tracker.  The group had to stick together and look after each other.

We set off into the dark.  Michael was leading the way with his state of the art GPS.  He had every single path on Google Earth and OS maps programmed into his machine and so never strayed more than 2 meters off the path.  This explained why I could not catch them the previous day.

Progress was fairly fast but Michael’s pace was very inconsistent.  After about one hour we reached a road and Michael announced he was dropping out of The Spine.  We were all rather shocked and surprised.  He explained that for the last hour he had lost proper control of his body temperature.  He felt he would not be able to cope with the conditions forecasted for the latter stages of our last leg.  We managed to flag down a car and Michael got a lift back to Bellingham. It must have taken immense courage to take that decision this close to the finish line.

Thomas took over leading with his GPS.  The pace quickened, as we knew we had to get as far as possible before the blizzard set in.

Back at Spine HQ  unknown to us , our team had been named - The Trans European Freight Train or TEFT for short.  However on the ground our group was not yet a team.  Thomas and Jin had been together from the start and moved as one unit.  Anna and Brian had paired up several days before and behaved as if they had been married for years.  And then there was me, ‘Billy No Mates’, tagging along.  The group as yet had no real team spirit.

Things were not helped by cultural differences.  If the Germans stopped to eat or change layers we all stopped.  If the Brits did the same the Germans would continue marching off into the distance and the Brits would have to play catch up. Thomas marched at a totally uniform speed both up and down hill. I preferred to avoid sweating by moving slower on the up’s then speeding up on the flat’s and downs . Our dysfunctional group was stretched up to 200meters apart at times!

We marched through Redesdale Forest. A storm was approaching and we heard the sinister sounds of Bombs and Artillery from the military ranges to our East. I felt like a Hobbit approaching the dark realm of Mordor.   Often we had to step back from the dirt road as vast logging trucks sped past taking runs at the ice covered switch back hills. This was real ‘Red Neck country’.

We met the Spine team again at the road through Byrness.  There we topped up our water knowing that for the next 35km we would be on our own in what was essentially a wilderness. Our only hope of shelter were two Mountain Refuge Huts high up in the Cheviots.

Climbing out of Byrness I paused to put on more layers.  When I looked up everyone else had disappeared over the skyline.  I hauled myself up the slope to see Brian and Anna 50 meters ahead with Jin and Thomas 200meters ahead of them .   Neither Thomas nor Jin ever looked back.  This was no longer a joke - we were not acting as a team.

I ran to catch up with Thomas telling him he had to slow down so we could keep together.  Thomas stopped still.  He appeared to have only two speeds, fast relentless march  and; “please hurry up, I am getting cold waiting”!   Fortunately, as we climbed the snow was getting deeper so Thomas, who was breaking the trail, was naturally slowing down.  The group closed up and moved ahead.

At around dusk we reached the First Mountain Refuge Hut.  The wind speed increased and the snow fell more heavily.  Thomas, with his sheer strength, did the bulk of the trail breaking helping the rest of the team following in his tracks.  We started rotating the front runner as with conditions deteriorating no one person could ‘ trail break’ for long. The following team members tramped along head down following the leaders trench.
 We seamlessly slipped from being three teams into one powerful team.  The TEFT was now acting as a well-oiled machine.   I totally forgave Thomas for everything that had annoyed me earlier.

With wind and freezing snow blasting us from our right hand side we clawed our way forward along the Cheviots.  All liquid water in our bottles had frozen solid . The snow got deeper but under the drifts the bogs were not frozen.  Our feet kept being soaked then re frozen. This lead to a build up of compacted snow much as you would roll balls of snow to make a snow man.

For some reason Brian had the worst problems.  Great balls of snow and ice had formed around his lower legs.  As the balls grew, the zips on his leggings were gradually forced up his leg exposing more places for ice to form.  He must have had over 1.5 kg of ice stuck to each leg.  His tracks looked like those of a two-legged elephant! Balls of ice the size of tennis balls formed on the ends of our running poles 

Whenever we passed a solid fence post we kicked out to dislodge some of the ice on our legs.    The navigation was getting more difficult.  GPS batteries were failing in the cold and I was struggling to wipe snow of  my map, let alone read and  re fold it in the wind.  We knew we had to keep close to the fence but the snow drifts and bogs were deeper there so we were forced away only catching glimpses of our ‘hand rail’ .  We kept counting  head torches  checking we were all still there.  If we stopped for a moment  our bodies started to freeze!  The situation was getting gradually worse and we all knew it. We just had each other, no help from outside was possible.
I think we all  had thought of pressing the amber alert button on the tracker but knew that the outside world could do nothing to help us
With the howling wind blasting snow and ice we could only communicate by yelling at each other with heads  touching

Just before The Cheviot at 700 meters the trail swung NW.  Now we had the wind at our backs.  We knew there was a Mountain Refuge Hut about 2km ahead but that would take us at least two hours at the rate we were moving.  To make matters worse our slow lurching pace made the GPS pointer swing randomly through 180 degrees! We needed the compass to stay on line.  

Auchope Cairn appeared just as the GPS batteries failed yet again.  We huddled together and dug out more spare batteries.  Changing batteries was a nightmare.  Thomas had to take his gloves off while trying to keep snow out of the innards of the GPS.  Frostbite was a real danger and we were all chilled when we stood up.

With new batteries installed Thomas promptly started marching back the way we had come. As the GPS had failed before our last waypoint it was indicating that we had to go back up the trail! (to the missed waypoint)   I shouted to Thomas we had to go west and waved my map at him.

Thomas was convinced we had to’ follow the GPS’.  Dramatically he threw back his head and screamed into the night, “ScHIZZEEERRRRR!!!!!”

If Thomas, who I had come to regard as a cross between Robocop and The Terminator, was shaken we really were in trouble!
By now we could hardly see our feet or the person in front so  checking  the glow of head torches behind us  each time the leader was changed became more vital.

My OS map was trashed and did not show the exact location of the hut so I checked with Anna’s  map.(  It was marked but with no grid ref) West it was to relocate the fence. We hoped to god we find the hut soon! (and not miss it in the swirling gloom)

At last a square shape emerged out of the blizzard.  We fell through the door dehydrated, exhausted and incredibly relieved. It had taken us 7 hours to cover the last 10 miles!
 Thomas had some time earlier cut his leg quite badly and keeled over as he went into shock as soon as he sat down!  Brian switched into doctor mode, covering Thomas up in a foil blanket and tending his wound. Anna went outside to collect snow and I got stuck in to melting snow and cooking   Jin just sat still looking stunned. We all knew how close we had come very close  to disaster.

We stripped off our wet clothes, blew up sleeping mats and got out our sleeping bags.  I fished out the Brie cheese from my pack and a body warm jacket potato I had been saving.  We shared them around while the snow melted then made hot drinks and Couscous . We were  shaken ,dehydrated,  but alive and unbeaten.

Water production was tricky.  We had to keep going back outside into the storm to collect more snow to melt.  Another problem was sheer cold.  To get a decent cooker flame even the winter mix gas canisters had to be warmed up by holding a lit candle under them!  I think we made some re-hydrated meals but I don’t really remember. A solid fuel stove would have been useless. (As it was we used 4 whole gas cylinders)!

There was just enough room on the wooden benches for four.  I elected to sleep on the floor as I had the thickest sleeping mat together with a down bag plus liner and my down jacket. We contacted Race HQ saying we would re-assess our situation in the morning.  I also gave my opinion that there was no way Dave’s team could make it to the second hut. (I later learned they had stopped at the first hut).

We woke up as dawn broke. We were going to finish this race!  Out came the gas fire again for breakfast and making water for our bottles. The sun appeared briefly but was soon replaced by wind and blowing snow.  To get going we had to remove the blocks of ice from our shoes and gaiters. They were all so stiff that it was impossible to get them on.  We did this by bashing them with a snow shovel found in the corner of the hut. The shoes and   Laces had then to be thawed out over the gas burner as they were just lumps of crumbling  ice.( My shoes were only 7 days old and I wondered if bashing them with a shovel and cooking them would nullify their guarantee .) Putting ice filled shoes back on was horrible but at least the spare wool socks helped. I silently thanked the Spine Planners for insisting on a compulsory kit list.
 I had used every item on the list including all my spare fuel and emergency foil blanket. I don,t know how cold it had been during the night but my -15c bag /liner combination plus down jacket and full set of dry base/mid  layers had only just been warm enough whilst I slept.
           
           We thought the last few miles would be easier but the Spine would not let us off that easily.  We had another steep hill to climb.  Although the blizzard had abated, the ground was now covered in deep snow.  We fell back into the ‘rotating the trail breaker routine.’  The depth of snow could be gauged by the number of wisps of grass protruding from the snows surface.  Snow covered heather seemed to be easier to walk on. We weaved forwards continually used our poles for balance and probing the snow.


  1. In the hollows the deeper snow was an unbroken white sheet.  We had to make detours around the deep snow.   Where a detour was not possible , forward progress on our feet was impossible. We fell to our bellies on the snow, supporting our upper bodies by holding maps and poles flat to the snow surface and crawling forward!  Thomas found the deep snow particularly difficult; he was so large he kept sinking through the surface. There had been jokes on facebook before the race about crawling to the finish line. What had been a joke was now reality. We pushed on down the hill and the going gradually eased. 

  1. The TEFT 2Km from the finish line.

Not long afterwards we spotted two figures in the distance.  The local Mountain Rescue team had been sent up to check if we were okay.  We accompanied them back to their 4WD then headed on towards the finish line.

More figures appeared.  Most of the Spine Team and the medics had come to welcome us and escort us to the finish line.

My first words to Scott, the chief organiser, were, “Scott --------------- you Bastard!”  I did not know weather to laugh or cry as I hugged him.

We were all in tears when we finally reached out and touched the finishing line of the pub wall. I did not even care that the Pennine Way finishing bell had been removed for some unknown reason.

I had just spent the most emotional fantastic and wonderful weak of my life competing in The Spine Race and I would never forget it.



              How do I feel about The Spine Race Looking Back?

       For me, The Spine Race is female.  She will enchant you, frustrate you, and test you to your limits, lifting you up, then smash you down.  You will love her for her beauty and be reduced to tears by her cruelty.  You must never take her for granted and in return she will reward you with all she has to offer.


                                    What state was I in when I finished?
          45 mile Ultra the next day after a little sleep would have been no problem.
          Strangely, the worst damage to my body was a horrendous case of Athlete’s Foot , probably  not helped by my over stressed Immune System. My feet were swollen from insufficient time sleeping horizontally  but  my legs were fine. I did a 14 mile recovery run 4 days later.
           It did however take some time to re-set my apatite to its normal level.
            
                          The Spine Race In One Word

                           Brutal!
            My head had got me to the finish line. My body just tagged along.


                                        One thing I know for certain


                          Completing The Spine Race will change you forever!